The Shocking History of Pumpkin Spice: Colonial Roots and PSL Craze

Prepare to be amazed by the story behind the iconic Pumpkin Spice Latte, a drink that has divided opinions and sparked controversy. It’s time to uncover the truth behind this autumnal sensation.

As a student in London, I was introduced to the magical world of pumpkin spice. The aroma of autumnal spices filled the air, thanks to my American flatmate’s annual Thanksgiving feast. Little did I know, this simple spice blend would become a cultural phenomenon.

Pumpkin spice has evolved from a humble seasoning to a national obsession in the US. Americans can’t get enough of it, spending a whopping $500 million annually on pumpkin spice-flavored treats. But how did this spice blend become so synonymous with American culture? The answer lies in a dark and bloody past.

The origins of pumpkin spice can be traced back to the islands where spices first grew, far from the US. The Asian spice trade, once peaceful, turned deadly during the conquest of the New World. The Dutch, in their quest for nutmeg monopoly, annihilated the Bandanese population, keeping survivors in near-slavery. Meanwhile, the Portuguese, Dutch, and English forced locals in Sri Lanka and Indonesia to harvest cinnamon and cloves under brutal conditions.

Despite this dark history, these spices became symbols of celebration and comfort in Europe. They were used to flavor meat and festive dishes like Christmas cake. As North America was colonized by various European groups, these spiced traditions persisted, especially during holidays.

Americans developed their own cuisine, incorporating local squash like pumpkin to distinguish themselves from their colonial rulers. Pumpkin pie, with its blend of nutmeg, ginger, and allspice, became a staple, especially during Thanksgiving.

But it was Starbucks that truly colonized the US with pumpkin spice. The Pumpkin Spice Latte, or PSL, was introduced in 2003, and it quickly became a symbol of autumn. Starbucks tied the drink to warm emotional associations, creating a limited-time offering that built anticipation and desire.

The success of the PSL can also be attributed to the science behind its flavors. Compounds in cinnamon, ginger, and cloves create a cozy, comforting sensation when combined with fatty substances like cream or milk.

Since its debut, Starbucks has pushed the release date earlier each year, with the 2025 launch on August 26 triggering a 27% surge in foot traffic to US stores. Despite some criticism, the PSL has become a beloved (or despised) symbol of autumn.

The #decolonizepumpkinspice movement emerged in 2015, linking the drink to colonialism and privilege. While some are aware of the costs of the spice trade, others argue that it’s ancient history.

Today, the global pumpkin spice market continues to grow, with Muji offering instant PSLs and Indian chocolatiers creating pumpkin spice-flavored treats. Pumpkin spice has become a part of the flavor landscape, a symbol of comfort and nostalgia.

So, the next time you indulge in a Pumpkin Spice Latte, remember the complex history and cultural significance behind this divisive drink. It’s more than just a flavor; it’s a ritual, a comfort, and a piece of American culture.

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